Awm 2003 Audi Tt Ecu and Cluster
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08-18-201507:09 PM #i
Agile Member Two Rings
Audi A4 1.8T Won't Start. Needs ECU?
UPDATE: Removed ECU and checked both female ends with a multi-meter. They both take 12V ability at them, this means the ECU is recieving ability. Is information technology a safe bet to replace the ECU at this indicate?
UPDATE: Replaced ECU and she runs! HUGE thank you for all the help from the members of AudiZine. Some other Audi will see the road considering of you guys!
Howdy all I have a 2001 A4 Quattro ane.8t. It has no spark, no fuel, and the rpm estimate doesn't work while turning over. I take replaced the cam position sensor, speed sensor, a relay, all fuses related, and yet have no spark or fuel on whatever cylinders. The fuel rails has fuel in it so I know my fuel pump is working, it's just the injectors non working. I constitute a ECU on eBay with the verbal same numbers on it from a 2001 A4. Can I just plug this into my automobile in replacement of the old one? Volition this fix my trouble?
Final edited by S-lime; 09-08-2015 at 03:37 PM.
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08-18-201507:11 PM #2
Veteran Member Four Rings
I take a 4b0906018CH From 2001 five-speed awm forsale.
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08-18-201507:35 PM #3
Veteran Member Iv Rings
Wow. Sounds similar you've been throwing some parts at this.
I would suggest picking ane symptom, and so tracing that back to a definite crusade. I'd choose spark, considering that'south less messy (and smelly) than fuel.
No spark? There are 4 wires that go to each gyre to make information technology fire. Figure out which wire is not giving the correct stuff. I'd judge yous are missing 12v supply to all 4 coil packs during cranking. Why is that? Side by side stride back is the fuse. Does the fuse have power during cranking? No? Side by side step back is the relay. Exercise nosotros take 12v+ at the relay? Do we have power and ground across the relay coil during cranking? No ground trigger from the ECU, eh? Do we have any codes? Is the ECU getting power and ground input at all necessary pins?
Just trace it back, symptom to source. There is no need to go far a guessing game. That gets expensive correct quick-like.
^Don't mind to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
2001 Laser Red A4 one.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
2006 Passion Ruby Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
2000 Satin Silvery Passat 1.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, 15" Hubcaps
1999.five Aluminum Silver Metallic A4 Avant 1.8TQTS (wintertime sled)
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08-19-201512:01 AM #4
Active Member Two Rings
Originally Posted past walky_talky20
I would normally do this. I highly dubiousness the rpm gauge, fuel injectors, and spark are all un-related issues though. They all atomic number 82 back to one thing. The ECU. Is there any way diagnose if the ECU is faulty?
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08-19-201512:11 AM #5
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
I would buy a tuned ecu from k0mpressed.
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08-19-201501:40 AM #six
Active Fellow member Ii Rings
Originally Posted past King_
Possibly. Is replacing the ECU as simple as plugging in and that's it?
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08-nineteen-201504:56 AM #seven
Established Member Two Rings
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08-19-201508:17 AM #8
Veteran Fellow member 4 Rings
Originally Posted past Southward-lime
On a North American B5? Yes, pretty much. In that location is no immobilizer so you only plug and go. Y'all should cheque the software coding to make sure it's ready correctly for manual/automatic, ABS/ESP and all that jazz.
Originally Posted by Southward-lime
The ECU. Or the power source to the ECU. Or the basis to the ECU. Or the ability supply relay to the ECU. In that location are lots of things, actually. But if yous have 1, past all means throw an ECU at it, too. Might fix it. Diagnosis of the ECU is pretty much "make certain the ECU has everything it needs, and then if information technology still isn't doing it'due south job, it's faulty".
^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
2001 Light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, April 93, ii.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front end & Rear
2006 Passion Carmine Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
2000 Satin Silverish Passat i.8T FWD Carriage, Slippy Tiptronic, xv" Hubcaps
1999.5 Aluminum Silvery Metallic A4 Avant 1.8TQTS (winter sled)
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08-twenty-201512:39 AM #nine
Active Member Ii Rings
Originally Posted by walky_talky20
ECU is receiving 12V power to both sides. How do I check the footing to the ECU before throwing a new on in it?
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08-20-201509:09 AM #10
Veteran Member Four Rings
First you become a diagram then you know what pins are supposed to get power, ground, etc.
If the ECU receives all grounds, abiding power, and ignition trigger power, it should provide a path to basis for the ECU Power Supply Relay sufficient to shut that relay.
And then, for case - if the ECU is doing everything it should - but the ECU Power Supply Relay is faulty and will not close, the car will not get-go in spite of a perfectly good ECU. That's one example.
If, notwithstanding, the ECU is getting everything it needs, but is declining to provide a path to ground to close the Power Supply Relay - that is one failure mode that I take seen of an Audi ECU.
^Don't mind to this guy, he's not fifty-fifty a mechanic.
2001 Laser Cerise A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, iv.11 Final Drive, April 93, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
2000 Satin Argent Passat i.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, 15" Hubcaps
1999.5 Aluminum Argent Metallic A4 Avant 1.8TQTS (wintertime sled)
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08-20-2015x:26 AM #11
Senior Member Iii Rings
Are you able to communicate with the ECU via vagcom or a scanner?
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08-20-201510:40 AM #12
Active Fellow member Two Rings
I basically merely stuck the multi-meter into random pins and most of them had power. I found this but I am having difficulty understanding what verbal pins should have power and ground. I too checked the relay abreast the ECU for power, and it likewise had power.
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08-xx-2015eleven:11 AM #13
Veteran Member Three Rings
Easy fashion is to plug in a calculator and make sure it tin communicate with the ECU, browse it for codes.
I've never seen my tach move while starting but possibly I don't pay close enough attention to it.
2017 MK7 CSGM GTI Sport DSG
PP (Golf game R Brakes, +10HP, VAQ LSD), LP, Kessey
LW 17" Sparco Assetto Garra's, 034 Res-X resonator Delete
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08-20-201508:51 PM #14
Veteran Member Four Rings
That's going to be difficult to follow because it'due south definitely a Nissan diagram. lol
This should help you out:
Check for skillful basis on pins 1 and 2.
Check for good 12v+ at pin iii (ability with fundamental ON)
Check for good 12v+ at pin 62 (power at all times)Pin 21 should show approximately 12 volts, besides. That is a path to 12v+ through the curlicue of the ECU Power Supply Relay. The ecu applies a ground to pivot 21 in club to close the relay.
Pin 121 is the 12v+ output of said Power Supply Relay dorsum to the ECU.^Don't listen to this guy, he'due south not fifty-fifty a mechanic.
2001 Light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation Carmine A4 one.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, iv.xi Concluding Bulldoze, Apr 93, ii.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
2006 Passion Scarlet Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
2000 Satin Argent Passat 1.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, 15" Hubcaps
1999.5 Aluminum Argent Metal A4 Avant 1.8TQTS (wintertime sled)
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08-21-201512:57 PM #15
Active Member Two Rings
Originally Posted by walky_talky20
Thank you so much! I checked all power and ground specified and all are working. I am going to order a new ECU now.
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08-21-201501:04 PM #16
Active Fellow member Two Rings
Also noticed the car says "Depress clutch to start" on the dash, even though it is an automated.. Is this normal?
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08-21-201503:04 PM #17
Veteran Member Three Rings
It means your Musical instrument cluster and possibly other programming in the ECU is set up for a transmission. Without seeing input from the clutch switch the car will never kickoff if the ECU is set up for a transmission as I empathise it.
And so your ECU is fine, just programmed wrong for the auto. In one case again is what I would assume. I'm not certain how to modify everything with VAGCOM, but e'er done information technology with the manufactory VAS tool.
Assuming you lot can change it, or purchase one that is right for your machine, then you lot should be adept to get.
Edit: If I'thousand wrong about how the ECU works transmission vs car then your diagnosis of a bad ECU would exist correct.
Concluding edited by Wrath And Tears; 08-21-2015 at 03:22 PM.
2017 MK7 CSGM GTI Sport DSG
PP (Golf R Brakes, +10HP, VAQ LSD), LP, Kessey
LW 17" Sparco Assetto Garra'southward, 034 Res-X resonator Delete
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08-21-201509:58 PM #18
Veteran Member 4 Rings
A manual B5 will definitely start without clutch input. Otherwise bump starting the auto would never work...e'er. Nor would turning the central off and dorsum on while rolling in gear. But both of those things definitely first the engine without touching the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal message from the cluster simply means that the cluster is coded for manual instead of automatic. It doesn't necessarily mean anything more than that.
If he really has checked everything, then it sounds like he has a bad ECU.
Personally, I can't believe the OP has knowingly purchased a cleaved Audi *and is attempting to gear up it himself* without having even the gratuitous version of VCDS. It boggles the mind.
^Don't heed to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
2001 Light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation Red A4 ane.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, four.11 Last Drive, APR 93, 2.5" Frazzle, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear
2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
2000 Satin Silver Passat i.8T FWD Wagon, Slippy Tiptronic, fifteen" Hubcaps
1999.5 Aluminum Silver Metallic A4 Avant 1.8TQTS (winter sled)
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08-22-201512:25 AM #xix
Agile Member Two Rings
Well, I'll update you all in a couple weeks when the used ECU arrives. I hope your help and my diagnostics take led to the right problem! :)
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09-08-201503:38 PM #20
Active Member Two Rings
Replaced the ecu and it runs, thank you lot guys so much
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06-04-202006:36 PM #21
Agile Member One Ring
I'm in a similar state of affairs and stumbled upon the colored pin picture of the ECM in this thread which helped me. I was getting intermittent voltage on 21 & 121 so I sent the ECM back to APR since they originally tuned information technology and warranty their work. They repaired it and sent information technology dorsum but the car yet won't work and now I can't connect to the ECM with my OBD2 scanner. I rechecked all of the pins for power as shown in the picture higher up and they all cheque out...and 21 & 121 are no longer intermittent (or at least it seems that way with limited testing). I'm debating whether I should buy another ECM on EBay to verify that fixes the issue and then send both to APR to have the tune moved to the new ECM.
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06-05-202012:03 PM #22
Established Member Two Rings
Originally Posted by SilverHotz
I'd effort to borrow or purchase a stock ECU and install information technology to verify you don't have a wiring result. I believe APR unremarkably tests the ECU before sending it back to the customer.
Light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation Red 2000 Audi A4 Sedan ane.8TQM
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06-05-202001:xix PM #23
Active Fellow member One Band
Thank you for the advice. That's exactly what I did today. I called APR. They verified they bench test them but obviously don't really put them in a automobile. I plant one on EBay for $50 then I bought that and hopefully in another calendar week I'll get it and be able to verify.
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06-eleven-202004:30 PM #24
Active Fellow member One Ring
Update - received replacement (used) ECM/ECU from Ebay and installed it. Voila! Car starts & runs.
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Awm 2003 Audi Tt Ecu and Cluster
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